Travel around the Faroe Islands with a sailboat

There are many ways to experience the Faroe Islands, but one of the more special experiences is to see the Faroe Islands from the sea.

While the vast majority of tourist operators are concentrating on activities on land, there are a few that concentrate on sea and coast.

One of these is the sailboat ‘Enniway’ with the skipper Hávarður Enni.

Hávarður is a young man who has sailed in with his mother’s milk and now has his own sailboat and offers to show us the Faroe Islands from his most beautiful side – the sea side.

“Enniway” is the first fiberglass sailboat in the Faroe Islands that offers boat trips with tourists. It is built in Rudkøbing on Langeland and is equipped with all modern equipment.

There is a well-equipped galley, large salon with room for 10 people, three cabins, toilet and shower on board.
Therefore, ‘Enniway’ can offer sailings that span several days, where you sleep and eat on board.

This is a four-day excursion with ‘Enniway’.

Day 1: When we embarked on board in Sørvágur, skipper had prepared the food: A luxury meal consisting of the best ingredients and everything from the sea, freshly caught crabs, horse mussels, shrimp, sea urchins and sushi.

 

Then we left port. We were really supposed to sail the next morning, but because of the weather report we chose to sail towards Hestur immediately. The trip went out about Tindhólmur and Gáshólmur, two islets west of Vágar. Tindhólmur is a very special island / island:

A steep green grass slope to the east and a very high vertical rock wall to the west. From there we sailed west of Vágar and passed Bøsdalafossur,

a large waterfall that goes directly from Lake Leitisvatn and into the sea. The waterfall can only be seen right from the sea side. Then we passed the Trælanípan, where in the old days you supposedly pushed unwanted slaves / slaves into the sea. On the way, skipper tells stories about the different places, and would like to follow our wishes about what we would like to see along the way.

After a few hours of sailing we arrived at the island of Hestur, a small island where only a few inhabitants live. At Hestur you can go up to the top of the island and enjoy the view.

Day 2: After a good night aboard ‘Enniway’ we are up for a sunny morning and a nice ‘Danish’ breakfast. Muesli, bread, freshly cooked muffins, cheese and cold cuts.

The weather is really good, so we choose to head for Lítla Dímun, a small island where only two families live.
On the way, we sail close along the west coast of Hestur, where the rocks rise approximately 400 meters vertically upwards, yes more than vertically, they actually hang a little over us. Here are thousands of birds in many species, and skipper lays in a small cove between some rocks and lets us look a little at peat bogs. Here is also the famous cave Klæmintsgjógv where you can get a small trumpet concert. The cave is huge and the reverberation stays for 13 seconds! On a really good day you can even go ashore inside the cave and move much further in.

Further towards Stóra Dímun we pass Trøllhøvd, a small islet northwest of Sandoy. People do not live here, but people have still left their mark. There is a small hut on the islet, and in the middle of the 150 meter high, vertical side to the west, there are several ladders that you use / used when picking up birds and eggs. Tricks are certainly not afraid of themselves …

We then pass Sandoy on the west side and later Skúvoy on the east side. Then Stóra Dímun. This small island (on the map at least) is actually huge when approaching. In the middle of the island’s 400 m high vertical cliff wall to the west you can see a horizontal orange stripe. It is “tuff”, a porous rock of volcanic ash. Since it is porous, it is eroded a little into the vertical rock wall. Here people can not find out…. Yes!

The farmer at Stóra Dímun has a few sheep walking on a steep hillside (Grønaskor) one kilometer away. When the sheep are to be picked up… yes, it is along this narrow crevice with 200 meters vertically up and 200 meters vertically down (see video below). They are crazy, the Romans … Faroes!

Below this rocky wall to the west, people are put ashore with a rubber boat and must go to the east side of the island. The farmer has come to meet and guides the trip. Some rocks have to be passed as there has recently been a cliff. Seen from the boat, the people on land are nothing but small dots on a huge rock wall. Getting to the east side you have to climb a very steep climb. Here it requires a safe foot and good nerves. People with altitude screams should not go here.

Some ladders and a wire are attached, so it is almost safe to go up. This is the only place on the island where you can get up from the boat, otherwise it is by helicopter.

Up on the island, the farmer shows and tells about sheep farming, fur tanning and life on the island in general. Here are four adults and four children. The children go to a small school on the island. The farmer’s wife has baked buns and made coffee for us. Meanwhile, ‘Enniway’ is waiting a bit from land and skipper Hávarður is preparing fish soup for the return journey.

Come down into the boat again the fish soup is served. The trip goes north again. On the way, the considerations go on to whether we should sail to Hestur again or perhaps to Nólsoy. We agree on Nólsoy, because tomorrow it will blow up, so Nólsoy is better suited. We arrive at Nólsoy at 22:00. When we arrive there is a party in town.

People sit on the harbor and sing common singing. However, parties end quickly. Skipper warms a little food and smokes a fish. We go for an evening walk in the village and go to the bunk.

Day 3: The day starts with bacon and eggs for breakfast. We go to sea. Today it blows a lot, so we turn off the engine and set sail. The sailboat sails hard to the side of the wind and we are allowed to help with ropes and sails.

It is a somewhat different experience than regular sailing. Silently we slide through the water with good speed. We pass many settlements in the strait, which, unlike the vertical cliffs yesterday, is surrounded by green grass hills and lots of life.

After a couple of hours we arrive at Hvalvík. The harbor is full of boats, because there has been regatta at the weekend. We go ashore and look around and decide to go through the valley to Saksun. A hike of 10-12 km. Saksun is a settlement in a fjord that many years ago sanded under a hurricane. Now one can go dry shoe out on the fjord. A very special experience.

After returning to the boat, we sail to Hósvík and spend the night there. Dinner: Minke whales, potatoes and onion butter.

Day 4: Early in the morning, the skipper is standing up while we are sleeping and leaving the land. We sail towards Nólsoy again. There is calm and light rain, so the sea is completely quiet. When people stand up we are in Tórshavn. We have to pick up a guide and eat breakfast while we are in the harbor.

Then we sail towards Nólsoy. The trip goes east of Nólsoy where we look into the east side of the village. The sea has soon eaten so much of the island that it is divided into two. On the east side there are also several caves. Here you can also experience concerts in the caves when the weather permits. We also look into the area of ​​the island where the world largest colony of “Little Storm Swallow” is. They are only active at night. During the day they live under the mountains of loose rocks that are here. We were supposed to have gone out tonight, but the spring has been cold so the birds have not come yet. It must be another good time.

At Nólsoy’s southern tip is Borðan, where we are put off in rubber boat. Here are two lighthouses. One, the Nólsoy Lighthouse, is a very large beautiful lighthouse built of stones cut from the rocks on the spot. The lens in the lighthouse is the largest lens in the kingdom. Previously, three families lived there who took care of the lighthouse and were otherwise reasonably self-sufficient. Today no one lives here, the lighthouse is automated and the buildings are locked. But here is really beautiful. The view is magnificent.

The guide eagerly tells local stories and stories. Then he leads us north, up to the island’s highest point, Eggjarklettur, at a height of 372 meters. Nólsoy is the Faroe Islands’ lowest island. From Eggjarklettur there is a beautiful view in all directions and down towards Nólsoy built.

While we have been on a mountain trip, the ‘Enniway’ is sailed down to the village, and as we arrive, a beautiful scent of lamb is spreading! We board and sail to Tórshavn while the teeth run in water over the meal that awaits us. After arrival, we enjoy the lamb roast and cream potatoes.

We pack our things and thank you.

We have had 4 wonderful days with everything from the sea.
The boat sails well and is very comfortable.
Skipper Hávarður Enni is a very skilled sailor with good training in sailing. He knows the Faroese winds and currents very well, and corrects the sailing plan for them. He is also very kind, humble and extremely flexible. He is very receptive to ideas and input.
Such a trip can really be recommended if you are not into regular mass tourism.

Hints:
Wear warm clothes. There is cold and windy sea. Remember in particular thermos,
woolen clothes and hat and gloves.
Wear non-slip shoes / boots.
Ask the skipper what the trips include, there can be steep cliffs that have to be climbed up or long walks requiring good footwear.
Be prepared for the plans to change from day to day and hour to hour. There are many factors to consider.
Enjoy the trip on board, enjoy nature, turn off the phone, breathe!

“Enniway”, we are definitely seeing again!